how much would it cost each year for an adult cats vaccinations? cat care prices?
my family is thinking about getting a cat from a cat shelter thats had all its kitten shots. how much money will it cost each year for the cats vaccinations? also, how much do i feed a male or female cat each day? i need to know how much so i know how much food i need to buy each month, i can only buy more food at the end of each month so i would have to stock up around the25th. do indoor cats need flea controll?
Pricing is going to vary from vet to vet, so I would recommend calling your local vets and getting prices from them.
I’m in NY. For my cat, I get him his 3 year rabies at the county rabies clinic because it’s only $5, and do the rest of the shots at the vets every three years (which is what my vet recommends, some do yearly.) I do check ups every six months. The office visit costs me $40, and the vaccine adds to that. It was $69 with the shots. So usually, I spend about $40, but when he needs his shots, it’s about $30 more. If your cat doesn’t come spayed or neutered, that runs $100- 125 in my area, but there are programs available to help with those costs.
I buy a bag of Chicken Soup for the Pet Lover’s Soul Adult Cat food at $9.00 per bag and it lasts me about three weeks when I just have the one cat to feed (I foster too, so when I have fosters, obviously the price goes up from there). You can get cheaper food, but they are just that: "Cheap!" I really recommend spending the extra $3-7 per bag on food to get a higher quality diet for your cat. If you feed well from the beginning, you end up with a healthier cat who needs less vet care in the long run.
I also buy recycled newspaper or pine litter. It’s also more expensive, but worth it. Clay litter has been reported to block and infect the nail beds on cats, preventing them from retracting their claws and causing a lot of pain. With male cats, recycled newspaper litter has been recommended to help reduce the risk of UTI. I find it easier to clean and it helps absorb smell more. Depending on which kind I buy, I’m usually spending $6-10 per month on cat litter when I just have the one.
Indoor cats only need flea control if you see a problem. Fleas can come in on your clothing, come up from cellars, and can be in the carpets and furniture already. If picking up a cat from a shelter, I would recommend asking if they already have the cat on a preventative. If not, I think it would be worth a dose of flea control to start out with. Shelters are usually clean, well managed facilities, and there can still be flea outbreaks. It’s like a kid in kindergarten, the teacher can be doing everything right, and one kid can walk in with lice and give it to everyone.
Frontline or Advantage from the vets is a quality product that is reasonably safe. Every type of flea control has it’s risks, but those two are the safest of the group. You can get cheaper flea meds at Walmart, but again…Cheaper = Cheap. I have had very bad experience with hartz and sargents products, including my cat having severe skin reactions and loss of hair. (this was before I knew better lol) I will never use or recommend any of their products again.
The other thing you need to factor into your equation is unplanned vet care. Things go wrong, injuries happen, and if you start off being prepared, then things go a lot smoother. I am on a limited income, and what I do is put away $5-$10 per week as a reserve for emergency vet care. This is not for the routine stuff. This is in the event my cat starts screaming at 2 am the day after I pay rent. It may not sound like much, but if you don’t use it unless you absolutely need it, it can add up quickly and be a life saver. In one year, you can have a vet reserve of $520.
I hope this helps!
Will my male cat fight with a new male kitten?
My male cat, 9 years old, has always been very friendly but we are thinking of getting a male kitten and im worried they wont get on. should i get a female kitten instead?
If you haven’t brought the kitten into your home yet, when you see him next wipe him or her down with a towel and bring it home with you. Set it very casually on the floor, and let your cat approach it, (don’t bring your cat to the towel like you’re showing him, let him find it on his own). If you have plenty of time in advance, then leave the towel around for several days, and even bring more towels with the kittens’ scent. Place them several places in the house, in the same way you “planted” the first one. It may also be helpful to rub your cat down with a towel also and bring it to the kitten.
When it’s time for the kitten to come home for the first time, as you are distracting your resident cat, have a friend, (someone who doesn’t live with you) bring the kitten in and place him or her in a room with the door closed. Also ask your friend to get the food and water dishes and the litter box set up in the closed room. Include toys and a bed, (or just a box with towels). The litter box should be in the opposite side of the room from the food, water and bed. DO NOT set up the kittens room before you bring him or her home. This will only confuse your cat. The point is to make your older cat think that the kitten suddenly, (and magically!) appeared, without your knowledge.
Your cat will approach the door and pick up on the scent of the kitten. Don’t get discouraged or worried if you hear some hissing and growling, as this is very common. For the first couple days, spend a limited time in the room with the kitten and make sure to give your resident cat plenty of affection, even more than usual.
Cats are very territorial animals, and this is why you don’t want him to see the kitten as an intruder that YOU brought home and shoved in his face. Cats are very much creatures of habit and routine, so when his routine is disrupted, don’t be surprised if he becomes very angry. You must be the judge of when they should meet face-to-face, but don’t push things too quickly, it may take a few days of sniffing each other under the door before they have settled down. When you believe they have calmed down and are ready, casually open the door a few inches. Remember, you are being nonchalant about this; do not force them on each other. You should pick a time after both cats have just eaten; feed them a treat that you know they will love, (like some of their favorite cooked meat). They will be content and their bellies will be full, so they’re less likely to want to exert a lot of energy in a cat fight. Supervise them and don’t be surprised if the older cat swats at or fights with the kitten. Don’t step in and separate them unless someone’s getting hurt worse than just a scratch on the nose. The kitten will probably retreat into his or her room at which time you should close the door. Increase the time you allow them to interact each day. Don’t leave them together unattended until you are confident that they comfortable with each other. Be patient. It may take a few weeks or even a few months, but if all goes well they will soon become the best of friends.
Extra tip: to ease the initial tension of introduction, rub each cat down with brewer’s yeast powder. Brewer’s yeast is available in natural food stores. It’s all natural, full of vitamin B, and will actually go good for the cats to lick it off. The smell of the brewers yeast helps disguise the foreign odors and each cat will basically smell the same. Don’t use anything like baby powder because the talc isn’t good for the cat to breathe or ingest. You should use the same grooming tools (combs, brushes, towels, mitts) on both cats to transfer their scents to one another.
Good luck!
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Have you had chance to see a cat fight a dog,and what was the result?
I wonder if a cat is brave enough to fight dog that even is as big as herself.
Yes I’ve seen a number of cat, dog fights. And the cats win, Even a small cat and a big dog. Cats are fast and attack the dog’s nose and face. It’s not a fight to the death. Usually it’s very fast the dog feels the pain of slashing claws across their face, eyes, and nose and runs off crying. But your right there is the physiological factor. Cats that weren’t raise around dog may be afraid and run and a dog will give chase. We have a number of cats and dog raised together and the dogs will always give the cats their due respect. Even unknown dogs from around the neighborhood. Cats that have been around dogs know how to handle them. I have two stories. I had a cat who was killed by two marauding dogs. The dogs roaming around looking for fun caught my cat between them and pull until they broke her back. I chased off the dogs when I saw what was happening. The cat lived a short time and then died, very sad for me. Then this story is cool and I’ll never forget it. We have a dog-named Flower and she’s getting pretty old now about 12 or 13. I was out front of the house working and a car. And some stranger dog was hanging around when I heard Flower cry out. I looked up from under the hood of the car and saw the stranger dog that was a pretty large had Flower by the neck and was holding her down. The stranger dog had Flower in a death grip to the neck. I went over and kicked the bigger attacking dog with little or no effect. Then I saw Gracie a small thin cat that was raised with Flower and would sleep next to Flower. When Gracie was a baby, a car hit her mother when she was still very young so Flower was like a mother to her.
Well I see Gracie kind of bounces off the hood of a car and flew through the air with all twenty claws fully extended and a crazed look on her face. She landing on the attacking dogs face and ripped into him. The attacking dog ran off crying with Gracie still dug deeply into his face, biting and scratching. I couldn’t see where the dog ran off too. But after a while Gracie came back just fine the attacking dog went to places unknown never to return. So an experienced cat can handle a dog and a dog that knows the pain of a claw scratch across the nose will show due respect.
Cat getting hurt in fight by other cats – happens often?
My cat stays inside every day but goes out at night. Almost 2 times a week we hear this big meowing and hissing and hear our cat fighting with another cat. Our cat is a girl and gets scared and gets beat up and shaken up in these fights. We know where the other cat lives. Should we tell our neighbors to do somthing to this cat? What should we do so this doesn’t happen again? Thanks for your help!!
This happens from time to time with our cat too. Not twice a week, but more often than we’d like our cat comes home with a puncture wound or scratches, especially on his ears. These can be serious because an infection can set it and the cat can get sick. So far we’ve been lucky. The thing about your neighbor’s cat, unlike dogs, even domestic cats are relatively feral when it comes to going outside at night. Reasonably, your neighbor’s cat has as much right to go out as yours does. If you do have a cat door, after your cat has been in a fight you should lock it for a few days. She may drive you crazy wanting to get out, but keep a litter box for her by the cat door (or wherever you keep it) and give her scratches and injuries at least a chance to close up before letting her out again. Maybe she will learn to avoid this cat because of the consequences of being locked in (IF she makes that connection, and that’s a bit IF). But for her own sake, she could get really hurt one of these days. Either that or they will work it out.
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will a non-neutered cat fight with a cat that has been fixed?
i have 2 male cats that grew up together. They have an apt to be fixed but are not yet. I have a friend that needs me to take her cat for her , hes a male cat but has been neutered and declawed. Will my 2 male cats fight with him?
Having your cat fixed may help with the amount of scraps it may get into, however your cat still has the ability to scrap and will. You cannot predict if your 2 male cats will fight with your friends cat. With proper introduction you can lesson the chance of fights, however this cat will be coming in on your cat’s territory and it will not be easy. You must expect at least a week for adjustment. If this is only for a holiday I would suggest your friend find a cat friendly shelter, it would still be a little stressfull, but no where near as bad.
how do you toilet train a cat?
i am sick of picking up poo out of the litter box. And i want the cat to start going in the toilet and flushing. Like a normal animal…. So what is the best way to go about doing this?
hope this will help from wikipedia
I want to try it with my cats
Indoor cats are usually provided with a litter box containing litter, typically bentonite, but sometimes other absorbent material such as shredded paper or wood chips, or sometimes sand or similar material. This arrangement serves the same purpose as a toilet for humans. It should be cleaned daily and changed often, depending on the number of cats in a household and the type of litter; if it is not kept clean, a cat may be fastidious enough to find other locations in the house for urination or defecation. This may also happen for other reasons; for instance, if a cat becomes constipated and defecation is uncomfortable, it may associate the discomfort with the litter box and avoid it in favor of another location. A litterbox is recommended for indoor-outdoor cats as well.
Daily attention to the litter box also serves as a monitor of the cat’s health. Numerous variations on litter and litter box design exist, including some which automatically sift the litter after each use. Bentonite or clumping litter is a variation which absorbs urine into clumps which can be sifted out along with feces, and thus stays cleaner longer with regular sifting, but has sometimes been reported to cause health problems in some cats.[47]
Toilet-trained house cat.Litterboxes may pose a risk of toxoplasmosis transmission to susceptible pregnant women and immuno-compromised individuals. Most indoor-only cats would not normally be exposed to the disease and are not usually carriers. Transmission risk may be reduced by daily litterbox cleaning by someone other than the susceptible individual.
Some cats can be trained to use the human toilet, eliminating the litter box and its attendant expense, unpleasant odor, and the need to use landfill space for disposal. Training may involve four to six weeks of incremental moves, such as moving and elevating the litter box until it is near the toilet, as well as employing an adapter such as a bowl or small box to suspend the litter above the toilet bowl.[48] Several kits and other aids are marketed to help toilet-train cats. When training is complete, the cat uses the toilet by squatting on the toilet seat over the bowl.
However, as the Toxoplasma gondii parasite often found in cat droppings poses a threat to endangered sea otters[49] cat owners in coastal areas are encouraged to dispose of droppings in the trash rather than flushing them.[50]